What does it really mean?
The natural cosmetic industry is steadily growing. Consumers are becoming more aware of what goes into the products they use, and are looking for safer options. However, the marketing industry has also been very successful at blurring the lines between what a consumer...
“Natural” is on a variety of labels but there is no regulated definition. The term “natural” is not
regulated by the FDA or by the Department of Agriculture like the term “organic” is. The government does not require health studies or testing for personal care products prior to being on the market. Legally anyone can pretty much call anything they want natural. So what do product marketers, retailers and consumers accept as natural?
Marketing firms create definitions to suit their needs while still sounding believable to their consumers. Larger corporations tend to base their advertising and packaging claims around words that sound good but may not actually mean much, like “non-toxic,” “biodegradable,” or “chemical free”, which are all terms that are unregulated as well. Not to mention, that every substance is a chemical (water, salt, plant extracts, proteins, etc.) so it is impossible for any product to be “chemical-free”. The most effective and ideal marketing strategy convinces consumers of a natural story for their product. The biggest natural brands tend to create their own high level of standards and make it part of their brand identity convincing consumers to buy into their vision of what makes a product natural.
Retailers are another important group who set the standards for how they define natural. These companies can create a basis for what type of ingredients they will or will not have in their store. For example, Whole Foods has created a comprehensive list of ingredients that cannot be in the cosmetic and personal care products in their store. These standards are based on quality sourcing, environmental impact and safety. Most of the ingredients on this list are commonly found in commercial personal care products found in department stores and super stores.
Consumers develop their definition of natural based on personal beliefs, what they are told by marketers, the media, the internet, etc. Some might think if it comes from the ground, it is natural even if it is petroleum based since oil comes from the ground, while others might think only plant based is natural. Natural could mean that it starts from nature but can be chemically modified to any degree. It is easy to be misled and the definitions vary widely based on how consumers perceive the content. Ultimately, it is hard for anyone to really know if they are truly getting something they think is natural. An excellent resource is LOHAS, this is a group that is dedicated to a lifestyle of health and sustainability, and was created by a group of consumers with specific intentions for what they will accept as natural.
Unfortunately, the harsh reality of a truly natural product is that it will not have the same esthetically pleasing look and feel as the traditional synthetic products that have always been on the market. These conventional cosmetics have set expectations that make it difficult for the truly natural ones to compete. Raw materials for these types of products tend to be more costly, which is why they are generally more expensive. Also, it is typical to take longer to see results and may not be as effective as standard cosmetic products. However, this is a necessary trade-off for a healthy lifestyle, having a positive impact on the environment, or to reduce your exposure to toxic chemicals.
Most functional ingredients do not exist in nature; natural products are a challenge to a formulator trying to compare with all the commercial products traditionally used. There are a limited amount of truly natural surfactants, thickeners and preservatives. Surfactants are used to cleanse, creating foam, and emulsify, very few surfactants that are derived from nature compare to the cleansing ability of synthetic ones. However, these are also known to be aggressive irritants to the skin. Preservatives are an absolute necessity in water-based products but synthetic options have notoriously been linked to allergic reactions and sensitivities, while ones considered natural have struggled with stability issues. Few functional cosmetic preservatives qualify under the USDA organic standards.
The term “fragrance” commonly refers to over 3,000 chemicals that do not have to be listed in the ingredients section on a label. The perfume industry took extra steps to patent protect the word “fragrance” long before LOHAS consumers were aware of the presence of toxins in a synthetic scent. Among the natural cosmetic industry it is a rule of thumb that essential oils should be the only components of a fragrance in a non-toxic product.
Several non-governmental organizations have formed to create their own standards on what the term natural refers to. Some of the common details in these groups include that a natural ingredient is one that is not synthetically derived or processed, and that physically processed ingredients from agriculture, things like natural oils, extracts, and proteins are accepted. Prohibited ingredients include parabens, sodium lauryl sulfate, petrolatum, mineral oil, paraffin, glycols, DMDM Hydantoin, synthetic fragrances or parfum, silicones and EDTA. Prohibited processes include irradiation, genetic modification, and chlorine bleaching. There are a number of details that are different between the standards of each group but for the most part there is a lot of overlap.
Some benefits of getting certified includes that it is appealing to consumers, stands out among competition, gives clear guidelines on what is or is not acceptable and may possibly be adopted by government agencies in the future. Although many smaller businesses are not getting certified due to costs, restrictions on formulating, lengthy procedures, audits and inspections even though they may fit the criteria.
There are four major categories of natural formulas cosmetic scientists group in terms of “most natural” to “minimally natural”. These categories include:
Tier 1 - These products are considered to be the highest degree of natural. This is when ingredients are taken directly from nature and sold as a product, such as coconut oil or rosehip seed oil. This can also include raw materials that undergo a natural process to arrive at the ingredient. These processes are extremely specific and limited. An example of an acceptable process would be with certain extracts, in which the process only involves adding water to the material and then straining.
Tier 2 - These products are organically certified by the USDA. They can involve some ingredient modification but very little. The USDA organic certification is the strictest of standards. This program was created to establish organic farming standards for food. However, cosmetics can qualify if they meet the same criteria. In this regulation there are three different categories. 100% organic ingredients (excluding water and salt) can display the USDA seal on their label. Also, if 95% of the ingredients used (excluding water and salt) are from organic agriculture the USDA Organic seal can be displayed on the label. When 70% organic ingredients are used these products cannot display the seal but can be labeled with "contains organic ingredients".
Tier 3 – These products formulate to a standard set by a nongovernmental organization or they maintain a high personal standard for natural. While there are a number of standards to choose from, which range from ingredients to fair trade, environmental impact, cruelty free and sustainability. They are less restrictive and expensive than USDA standards. An example for Tier 3 is the collaboration with Aveda and Ecocert, these products with this certification is appealing to most natural consumers.
Tier 4 – This level is also known as “green-washing.” It is the simplest way to turn a standard product into something that will appeal to a natural consumer. This is the lowest form of natural to formulators and other cosmetic professionals but also the most popular. This is usually created based on a standard formula, a miniscule amount of some organic extracts or other "natural" sounding ingredients are added, then it is concocted to smell like a plant, along with changing the color and the packaging to look like something associated with the natural world. Traditionally, giving the appearance of a natural product without actually operating with natural intentions works from a marketing perspective but it is ethically questionable. Companies have been doing this for a long time. Aveeno uses ingredients such as oat, soy and seaweed but also petrolatum, dimethicone and isopropyl palmitate. When the average consumer purchases this it is likely that they believe by using this item they are infusing their skin with the plant of the botanical extract but the amount is so small it is unlikely they are receiving any benefit from the botanical. In this tier, big petroleum-based personal care product companies labeled and advertised as natural are categorized.
While there are a number of groups that help shape the definition of natural in the marketplace, it is up to the individual to decide which definition to follow, which ingredients are acceptable, which ingredients to avoid, what standards to follow for the way ingredients are created and processed, the environmental impact of a product and so forth. Some other concepts to consider that often go hand in hand with these types of products are fair trade, plant derived, carbon neutral (they planted trees to offset the emissions caused by making the product or they didn’t release anything into the atmosphere which could affect climate change), green (good for the environment), non-toxic, renewable (sustainable), gluten free, organic. Many of these terms are not regulated either so in order to be sure of the actual contents consumers have to go the extra mile and do their research. It is up to the individual to come up with a definition of natural they can believe in.